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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.